Observations About Wales:

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first published in   July 2001

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Castell Deudraeth Is 
Portmeirion’s Latest Accomodation

It was the site of horrific experiments: mind transfers, drug-induced invasion into the depths of personality and persuasion by dehydration. It witnessed suicide, violence and group therapy with a weather balloon. And you, dear reader, are welcome to spend the night.

Castell Deudraeth stands on the grounds of North Wales’ Portmeirion complex. In 1966 and 1967 it played the role of the hospital in the TV series “The Prisoner”. Coming up with lunatic fantasies in mind experimentation were a day-to-day part of the scriptwriter’s job.

Sometime in its history, however, Castell Deudraeth did serve as a private asylum as noted in “Portmeirion: The Place and its Meaning” by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, who was the founder and architect of Portmeirion. Sir Clough purchased Castell Deudraeth in 1931 from his uncle Sir A. Osmond Williams, MP.

Before it became Castell Deudraeth the original building was an 18th century cottage that was expanded into a mansion in the 19th century. During the 1850s David Williams, MP for Merioneth, enlarged and castellated the mansion Bron Eryri, as it was then called, and added a formal walled garden.

Castell Deudraeth, which spent the last decade derelict, promises to be a center of tranquillity.  Taking a hard hat tour in March I was impressed by the size of the eleven guest rooms and their “your wish is my command” detail. The finished work promises to be elegant and welcoming in an understated style.

Many of the rooms have fireplaces, all are equipped with whirlpool baths and kitchenettes, all are wired for sound and temperature selection. The décor will be based on a neutral palette including off-whites, grays and blues befitting the Deudraeth’s masculine aura, in contrast to the Hotel Portmeirion’s jewel colors and floral opulence.

The super-roomy penthouse suite has a two-sided fireplace in its living room and, beyond glass sliding doors, a parapetted terrace complete with narrow slits for archers. This plush snuggery is fit for a couple with aspirations of living like royalty for the week. Bows and arrows are not included, but privacy is ensured.

Castell Deudraeth’s amenities will include exhibition rooms and two informal dining rooms (a brasserie and a conservatory) dividing non-smokers from smokers. But the good news is a monstrous but polite ventilation system has been installed to keep the environment pleasant throughout.  The prodigiously equipped kitchen under Portmeirion’s executive chef Billy Taylor and Deudraeth’s head chef Steven Rowlands will create a lighter menu than the one generally offered at the Hotel Portmeirion. It will specialize in local seafood. One hundred and two wines have been chosen by head sommelier and bar manager Brian Walshe who explained in his mellifluous Scots accent “When it came down to that last number there was no wine I could say ‘no’ to.” In a move that will attract adventurous taste buds, twenty wines will be offered by the glass. The bottles will be time stamped upon uncorking so the by-the-glass selections are guaranteed fresh. Mr. Walshe, a perfectionist in his craft, would have it no other way. 

Castell Deudraeth is at most half mile up the road from Portmeirion. Transportation will be provided, or else guests can walk a flowered path from one place to the other.

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